I-ALOHA SHIRT Igama Isingeniso
ISHIRT LE-ALOHA ngokuvamile libizwa ngokuthi ISHIRT LE-HAWAIIAN eJapane.Lokhu kungenxa yokuthi igama le-HAWAIIAN SHIRT ngokwalo livela ezintweni ze-kimono ezalethwa izifiki zaseJapane ezathuthela eHawaii ngawo-1930.Ekuqaleni kwawo-1930, isitolo sezingubo saseJapane e-HONOLULU, eHawaii (MUSASHI SHYODEN.Ltd. - Musashi Shop) senza amahembe okuqala aseHawaii sisebenzisa izindwangu ze-kimono ezazisele ezathunyelwa zisuka e-Japan ukuze zisetshenziswe ama-diaspora ase-Japanese e-Hawaii.Kamuva, usomabhizinisi waseShayina u-ELLERY Chun wafaka isicelo sophawu lokuhweba (ALOHA SPORT WEAR) ngo-1936 kanye nophawu (ALOHA SHIRT) ngo-1937. Ngemva kweminyaka engu-20, igama lokuthengisa elithi ALOHA SHIRT lalingelakhe kuphela, kanti igama elidala (HAWAIIAN SHIRT--- -) isetshenziswe phakathi kwezizwe zaseJapan, ngakho-ke iphinde ibe nomthelela kumkhuba waseJapan wokuyibiza nge-HAWAIIAN SHIRT.
I-ALOHA SHIRT uma udidekile ekukhetheni, qala wenze ireferensi kusuka kwendwangu!
Kusukela ekuzalweni kwe-ALOHA SHIRT kuya enanini lezindwangu ezisetshenziswa namuhla, i-oda kufanele libe: Ukotini/ifiber yamakhemikhali/i-RAYON/usilika (Impahla kasilika, ngokunembe kakhudlwana i-ALOHA yazalwa eminyakeni yokuqala yamaJapane eyathuthela eHawaii ukuze ISHIDI lasentshonalanga lisebenzisa i-kimono, futhi i-kimono esetshenziswa kakhulu usilika owenziwe ngosilika ISHIRT ALOHA, okusho ukuthi, ISHIRT LE-ALOHA likasilika libizwa nangokuthi ihembe le-Aloha likasilika Ihembe le-ALOHA elithuthuke kakhulu.
Ngaphezu kwalokho, ngesidingo esikhulayo se-ALOHA SHIRT eHawaii ngenxa yokuthuthukiswa kokuvakasha okwandayo, izinto ezihlukahlukene ezihlanganisiwe ne-hemp nazo zivele endwangu yayo, okwenza.ISHIDI LE-ALOHAhhayi kuphela amaphethini amahle ayingqayizivele, kodwa futhi abe nokuqanjwa okunemibala eminingi ezinhlotsheni zezinto ezibonakalayo.
Manje ISHIDI LE-ALOHA ezindwangu ezihlukahlukene libuye lithandeke eliyingqayizivele.
Indwangu ye-ALOHA SHIRT yezinto ezibonakalayo ze-RAYON
"Uma kuziwa ngendwangu ye-ALOHA SHIRT, i-RAYON ihileleke ngokuqondile, futhi i-RAYON ihlobene kakhulu ne-ALOHA SHIRT."
Ingaphezulu lendwangu ye-RAYON izwakala ishelela, igwegwe nomuzwa wesisindo, iguquguquka ngomoya kanye nombala oqinile.I-RAYON iyimpahla yokwenziwa eyakhiwe e-United Kingdom ngo-1891, ngoba isondelene kakhulu nendwangu kasilika ehlonishwayo yabantu baseBrithani (kukhona nezinto ze-RAYON ezakhiwe ukuze kuthathelwe indawo usilika zingenziwa ngobuningi futhi ngentengo ephansi), i umzimba muhle futhi ushibhile futhi uhlala isikhathi eside.Ngeminyaka yawo-1940 kanye nawo-1960, ISHIDI I-ALOHA yayisetshenziswa kakhulu e-United States kwezingubo ezisondelene nezempi nezakhamuzi, okwakubuye kube yindumezulu ye-ALOHA SHIRT, ngakho-ke impahla ye-RAYON nayo yaba indwangu emele ihembe le-Aloha ngesikhathi sokukhula kwayo.Namuhla i-VINTAGE (kokubili ukuphrinta kabusha ngokomzimba nakudala) amahembe e-ALOHA enziwe ngezinto ze-RAYON kakhulu.
I-RAYON izinhlobo zendwangu
Uphaphe olukabili ----------- Imigqa ye-warp (eqondile) kanye ne-weft (evundlile) ilungiswa ngendlela yendwangu evundlile neqondile (ukweluka okuyisicaba) ye-RAYON ende ifayibha (i-fiber encane eqhubekayo).Ingaphezulu libushelelezi futhi licebile ngokukhanya, futhi linezici zokuzizwa komzimba othambile.
Uphaphe olukabili lufana nendwangu ethambile futhi emsulwa emhlophe.EYurophu nase-United States, usilika omhlophe ubizwa ngokuthi "Habutae" ngesiNgisi.I-RAYON (indwangu ye-RAYON emhlophe emsulwa efana nosilika omhlophe omsulwa) njengalolu hlobo lwezimpaphe ezimbili yayisetshenziswa kakhulu kumahembe e-ALOHA ngeminyaka yawo-1940s nasekuqaleni kwawo-1950, ikakhulukazi emikhiqizweni ye-ALOHA SHIRT.
I-FUJIET ---------- I-warp (emile) yenziwe nge-RAYON ende fiber, kanti i-weft (evundlile) yenziwe nge-RAYON i-fiber emfushane (i-short cut waste fiber ------, izindleko- ukunciphisa indlela yokusebenzisa imfucuza), okubuye kube yindwangu yendwangu eqondile neqondile (i-flat weaving).Ngenxa yokuthi i-RAYON fiber ngokwayo incane kakhulu, ngisho noma kusetshenziswa inani elikhulu lemicu emifushane, indawo yendwangu ayihlukile kakhulu kunendwangu ephindwe kabili ye-RAYON yobude obugcwele, futhi ishibhile kunendwangu ephindwe kabili ye-RAYON futhi ingaba. zakhiwe ngenani eliphansi.
Ngenxa yokuthi i-weft yenziwe ngemicu emifushane, indwangu ngokwayo inkulu kunendwangu ye-RAYON enezimpaphe ezimbili.Ngoba umuzwa usondelene kakhulu neFUJI SILK, ebizwa ngokuthi iFUJIET.
I-FUJIET yayisetshenziswa kumahembe e-ALOHA kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-1950s.I-ALOHA SHIRT kaDuke Kahanamoku yenziwe cishe yonke nge-FUJIET.
Ukotini oshwabene odongeni ----------- I-warp (emile) yenziwe ngentambo engasontiwe (untwisted textile fiber thread), kanti i-weft (intambo evundlile) yenziwe ngentambo yodonga (nomugqa omkhulu njengo i-axis kanye nentambo yefayibha ejiyile esontelwe kuyo), futhi indwangu efanayo yenziwe nge-warp eyisicaba eqondile kanye ne-weft.
Ubuso bayo bunesici se-concave-convex.Ngenxa yokuthi iqhubu elinjalo lifana kakhulu nephepha lodonga, libizwa nge-WALL SILK ngesiNgisi.
Ekuqaleni, lolu hlobo lwendwangu yendwangu ye-concave ne-convex yendwangu ivela eJapane, impahla esetshenziswa eJapane isilika, iJapane kuphela, esetshenziswe ku-kimono, iwuhlobo lwendwangu ye-kimono yezinga eliphezulu ebonisa ngamabomu ubuhle be-concave ne-convex kanye ukuzwa.
Indlela efanayo yezindwangu yasetshenziswa eHawaii maphakathi nawo-1930 nasekuqaleni kwawo-1950 ngemva kokuvulwa kabusha kohwebo phakathi kweJapane ne-United States (uhwebo lwamiswa ngemva kwempi phakathi kweJapane ne-United States), kodwa le ndwangu yodonga oluyi-concave ne-concave. eyenziwe nge-RAYON fiber yayisetshenziswa kumahembe e-ALOHA anamaphethini endabuko ama-kimono aseJapane.
Njengoba indawo engaphezulu ifana ne-concave ne-convex yomqondo wephephadonga, indlela eyodwa kuphela engasetshenziswa ukudaya ngesandla ngesandla, ngakho-ke abadwebi abanjalo abakwazi ukuqinisekisa ukuthi izindleko zemanuwali ziyaqhubeka nokukhula, kuhambisana nenqubekelaphambili yokukhiqizwa kwenqwaba yezimboni, izindwangu azisaveli ngemva kweminyaka yawo-1960.
ISHIDI LE-ALOHA lika-RAYON nalo linobuthakathaka.Okusho ukuthi, kuzoba nokuncipha okuthintekayo ngendlela yokuhlanza, futhi ukuncipha kubi kakhulu.Ngakho-ke kungcono ukusebenzisa imali eyengeziwe ukuthumela elondolo elikhethekile lokuhlanza.Uma uzihlanza, guba ngobumnene ngangokunokwenzeka.
Kukhona futhi "Angikwazi ukwenza ukuhlanza okunzima kangaka, kodwa futhi ngixove kancane, futhi ngithunyelwe elondolo?"Noma khetha okuthi "Yeka ukuncenga okuhle!"Bangane, bese ufaka ngqo emshinini wokuwasha ukuze ugeze KULUNGILE, kodwa kungcono kakhulu ukufaka inetha lokuwasha ukuvimbela indwangu ukuthi ingawashi.
Uma kukhona abangani okumele bafune ukwazi ukuthi bayihlanza kanjani i-ALOHA SHIRT njengendlela engcono kakhulu, bese wenza isingeniso esikhethekile kamuva.
Indlovukazi yendwangu ye-ALOHA SHIRT -- SILK
Emlandweni weISHIDI LE-ALOHA, ekuqaleni yayenziwe ngama-kimono alethwa abafuduki baseJapane eHawaii.Ngakho-ke, impahla ye-kimono eyigugu kakhulu iwusilika wezinto zikasilika, ISHITI LE-ALOHA lezinto zikasilika libuye libe yi-ALOHA SHIRT ethuthuke kakhulu, kodwa futhi ingeyokuqala futhi ingeyesimanje kakhulu.Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi ingubo ye-kimono noma yasentshonalanga, usilika ubulokhu usungula isimo sezinto ezisezingeni eliphezulu.
Kusukela empucukweni yokubuyiselwa kwe-Meiji yase-Japan kuya ekuvukeleni kwezimboni, ngemva kwempi yangaphambi kwempi yenkathi ye-Taisho/Showa, usilika uthatha isikhundla esibalulekile ekuthumeleni izinto ezithengiswayo zase-Japan.Ubuchwepheshe be-Sericulture kanye nobuchwepheshe bukasilika bavela eChina, kodwa futhi basakazekela emazweni aseYurophu, kodwa ngokukhuthala nokusebenza kanzima kwezingcweti zaseJapane ngokwazo, imikhiqizo kasilika esezingeni lomhlaba yadalwa kusenesikhathi kakhulu, ekuqaleni kobukhosi bakwa-Qing, usilika waseJapane wathengiswa. emuva eShayina, edume kakhulu.Ngakho-ke, usilika waseJapane wanconywa ngabaseNtshonalanga, futhi kamuva wabonakala ku-ALOHA SHIRT eyaziswa kakhulu.
Usilika wenziwa ngezinto zikasilika, ngakho-ke ungadaywa ngesandla kuphela, ngakho inani liphezulu.Amahembe e-ALOHA (nezinye izingubo) enziwe ngosilika ayenziwa ngokwezifiso kusukela ngawo-1930 kuya kuma-1950s.
Ngakho-ke, izinto ze-VINTAGE azivamile kakhulu futhi zibiza kakhulu, futhi kunzima ezinkampanini zanamuhla zokukhiqiza ukusebenzisa izindwangu ezinjalo zokukhiqiza.Ngezikhathi ezithile kuba nokuqoshwa komkhiqizo, inani layo aliphansi futhi inombolo incane kakhulu, ngakho-ke ukusetshenziswa kwezindlela ezindala ezilukiwe zezinto zikasilika eziqoshwe nge-ALOHA SHIRT zingabizwa ngokuthi ALOHA SHIRT eziqoshwe ezingcono kakhulu.
Indwangu kasilika umuzwa wesikhumba muhle kakhulu, njengoba impahla yangaphansi yasendulo ithanda iChina yasendulo ngisho nezicukuthwane zaseYurophu naseMelika, usilika uyinto yemvelo ehlanzekile, ngakho-ke abantu abanokungezwani nesikhumba bangakwazi futhi ukusebenzisa, izinto zikasilika zinokukhanya okomile nomuzwa ophefumula kakhulu. , ukukhanya kwelanga ehlobo kungavikela isikhumba ngesikhathi esifanayo somile futhi siphefumula.Lokhu ngeke kuthathelwe indawo enye into.
Ubuthakathaka bezinto zikasilika ukwesaba ukuguguleka komjuluko, ngakho-ke kudinga ukugezwa njalo, kuyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu futhi kunzima ukunakekela izinto ezibonakalayo, indlela yokuhlanza nayo inzima kakhulu, kulula ukudliwa yizinambuzane, futhi ukugcinwa kwezinto ezixosha izinambuzane kuyadingeka.Njengowesifazane othambile odinga ukunakekelwa.
Kuze kube manje, kukhona inani elikhuluISHIDI LE-ALOHAizindwangu ---- ukotini okumsulwa
Ukotini uyimpahla enhle kakhulu.Impahla ngokwayo kulula ukuyithenga ngobuningi, namahembe e-ALOHA enziwe ngokotini ashibhe kakhulu futhi maningi kakhulu.Ihlala isikhathi eside futhi kulula ukuyihlanza ngokuthanda kwakho.Ngaphezu kwalokho, ingcono kakhulu kune-RAYON nosilika ekujulukeni okucwebezelayo.
Cishe akukho ubuthakathaka, uma ubuthakathaka, ngaphezu kokuncipha okufanayo kanye nokushwabana, okungukuthi, ngemva kwesikhathi eside sokusetshenziswa nokuhlanza ngemva kombala ophelayo kunezinye izinto, kodwa abanye abantu bacabanga ukuthi lokhu kubuye kube ukunambitheka.
I-ALOHA SHIRT yemikhiqizo kakotini yazalwa okokuqala maphakathi nawo-1950s futhi manje isiyindwangu ye-ALOHA SHIRT, eyazalelwa ikakhulukazi e-United States ngenxa yethonya lomkhuba we-ALOHA SHIRT.Kamuva, izifunda zamavulandlela e-ALOHA SHIRT njengeHawaii zaqala ukukhiqiza imikhiqizo eshibhile ngobuningi ukuze kuthathelwe indawo imikhiqizo ebizayo yomphakathi.
Amahembe e-ALOHA angathengwa cishe noma yikuphi kulezi zinsuku, kuhlanganise naseHawaii, kodwa amaningi enziwe ukotini futhi anamuhla.Uma ufuna ukuthenga iphethini ye-ALOHA SHIRT kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-1950s, ungathenga kuphela iphethini/iphethini ye-ALOHA SHIRT/kanye nephethini yehembe lakuqala le-Aloha laseMelika kukotini kuphela uma ukhetha ikhophi ehlukahlukene.
Hlobo luni lwe-ALOHA SHIRT okufanele ngiluthenge?
Ngaphandle kwezindwangu ezishiwo ngenhla, kukhona amahembe e-ALOHA enziwe ngezinto ezihlanganisiwe ezifana ne-chemical fiber.Njengoba ngokuyisisekelo ingazange ivele enkathini yegolide ye-ALOHA SHIRT e-United States esikhathini esidlule, isetshenziswa ezinhlobonhlobo zamahembe ezimbali ezifanayo namuhla (amahembe ezimbali avamile afana nalawo abesifazane abaneminyaka ephakathi nasebekhulile eChina), akusona isingeniso esifushane.
Ngakho-ke noma uthenga ISHIRT LE-ALOHA langempela, kufanele uqale ucabangele izinto ezimbili:
1) Ngithanda amamodeli esimanje futhi atholakala yonke indawo (imikhiqizo yasendaweni ye-Hawaii yokubona indawo).
2) Thanda iphethini ye-ALOHA SHIRT nombala weminyaka yakudala yegolide yaseMelika.
Ngemva kokunquma 1) noma 2) ngenhla, cabanga umehluko phakathi kwezindwangu kanye nomehluko ocashile ongemuva omelwe yindwangu ngayinye.Eqinisweni, kunomehluko omningi ocashile, ikakhulukazi esikhathini esidlule lapho ISHISHI LE-ALOHA lalidume kakhulu e-United States.
------------------ iyiphethini yendabuko yesiJapane.Okufana njengokuthi: i-carp, iNtaba iFuji, njalonjalo amaphethini angaphindaphindi.Zonke zivela emaphethini kuma-kimono endabuko aseJapane.
Isibambo saseNtshonalanga ------------------- Amaphethini ayintandokazi aseNtshonalanga.Okufana nokuthi: omele kakhulu yiphethini yembali yaseHawaii, uphayinaphu, isihlahla sikakhukhunathi nokunye.
プルオーバー ----------DHIPHA.Kuwuhlobo lokudonsa.
Okulandelayo, sizoqhubeka nokwethula elinye lamaphuzu abalulekile "izinkinobho" ze-ALOHA SHIRT charm.
Ukukhuluma "ngenkinobho" nakho kudlala indima ebalulekile entendeni ye-ALOHA SHIRT.Kukhona nezinhlobo eziningi zezinkinobho ezisetshenziswa kumahembe e-ALOHA.Izinkinobho ezihlukene zidala umuzwa ohlukile we-ALOHA SHIRT.
Izinkinobho ezijwayelekile yilezi: uqalo/ukhukhunathi/igobolondo/insimbi, njll. Ezikhathini zamanje, kunezinhlelo zengilazi ze-urea/organic.Izinkinobho ezifanayo ezinobukhulu obuhlukahlukene kanye nokuma, futhi izinhlobo ezahlukene zizizwa zihlukile.Okubalulekile ukuthi izinkinobho zihlukile ezikhathini nasezifundeni ezahlukene, futhi izinkinobho zamahembe e-ALOHA zihlukile ngokuya kwesikhathi lapho amahembe e-Aloha athengiswa ngawo.Abacwasi abangochwepheshe be-ALOHA SHIRT bangafinyelela isikhathi sokukhiqiza se-ALOHA SHIRT ngokusekelwe kuzinkinobho.
Okulandelayo yizinhlobo eziyinhloko nezici zezinkinobho
Uqalo -------------- Ukusetshenziswa koqalo olunezicubu eziminyene zefayibha, ezifakwe esihlabathini kanye nokusetshenziswa isikhathi eside kuzovela kunsundu ngokumnyama ngokucwebezelayo.Ukuminyana kwezicubu ze-fiber eduze kwempande yoqalo kuphezulu.Iphethini yomdabu yaseJapane i-ALOHA SHIRT ngeminyaka yawo-1950s yayisetshenziswa kakhulu le nkinobho yoqalo, ngoba uqalo olulodwa lungasebenzisa impande kuphela, inani lezinto zezinkinobho eziqoqiwe alilikhulu, futhi inqubo yokupholisha izinkinobho yenziwa ngesandla, ngakho yayisetshenziswa kuphela ku-ALOHA. ISHIRT ngaphambi kuka-1930 kuya phakathi no-1950.
Ukhukhunathi --------------- Izinkinobho ezenziwe ngokuphenduka kukakhukhunathi nazo ziyizinkinobho ezivame kakhulu.Impahla kulula ukubaza izitayela ezihlukahlukene nosayizi abahlukene.Abakhiqizi be-ALOHA SHIRT baseHawaii kusukela ngeminyaka yawo-1930s kuya ko-1950s basebenzise le nkinobho kakhulu kumahembe e-ALOHA anamaphethini ezimbali esitayela saseNtshonalanga.
Igobolondo --------------- Ukusebenzisa igobolondo uvemvane elimhlophe/igobolondo uvemvane olumnyama kuphume izinkinobho, kunomqondo osobala nokucwebezela okuhle.Yayisetshenziswa kakhulu kumahembe anephethini endabuko yaseJapane ekuqaleni kwawo-1930 kanye namahembe e-ALOHA enziwe ngosilika ngemva kwempi.Isetshenziswa ebhandeni lenani eliphezulu le-SHIRT.Ezithuthuke nakakhulu izinkinobho ezingcolisa amagobolondo ukuze ziwanikeze umuzwa oyingqayizivele wombala.
Izinkinobho zensimbi ---------------- Izinkinobho zensimbi.Ingaphezulu lenkinobho ngokuvamile lenziwa ngobuso bakudala bemali/iqhawe/Inkosi u-KAMEHAMEHA (inkosi yomdabu yaseHawaii)/heraldry njll. Kusukela maphakathi nawo-1950s, ukuze kwengezwe okunye okubalulekile okuyisikhumbuzo nokunamathisela umuzwa wezinga eliphezulu, isetshenziswe ezindwangu zikasilika (usilika) namahembe e-ALOHA anezici ezithile eziyisikhumbuzo.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Jan-04-2024
